tplgolf - Indoor Golf Guide

Here's a truth that might save you thousands of dollars: the space dictates the simulator, not the other way around.

I've seen people buy expensive launch monitors before measuring their ceiling height. I've watched golfers order 12-foot-wide screens for 11-foot-wide rooms. I've talked to homeowners who built enclosures only to realize their projector couldn't throw a big enough image from that distance.

Don't be those people. Before you spend a single dollar on equipment, you need to understand your space completely.

The Three Critical Dimensions

Height: The Ceiling is Your Swing's Limit

Minimum: 9+ feet from floor to lowest ceiling obstruction
Comfortable: 10+ feet
Ideal: 11+ feet

This isn't negotiable. You need to complete a full backswing with your longest club (driver) without making contact with anything above you. Even getting close to the ceiling creates mental interference—you'll subconsciously shorten your swing.

How to measure properly:

Stand where you'd be hitting in the space
Take your driver to the top of your backswing
Have someone mark where the club head reaches
Add 6-12 inches of buffer

Don't just measure floor to ceiling. Check for:

Ductwork
Exposed beams
Light fixtures
Pipes
Garage door tracks

The lowest obstruction is your actual ceiling height for simulator purposes.

If you're tall (6'2" or over) or have a steep, upright swing, add another 6 inches to these minimums.

Some taller golfers need 10 feet minimum to swing comfortably.

Width: Room to Swing Without Fear

Minimum: 10 feet Comfortable: 12 feet Ideal: 14+ feet

Width affects two things: your ability to swing freely and your margin for error on off-center hits.

A 10-foot-wide space technically works, but it feels tight. You'll be aware of the walls. If you have a tendency to miss right or left, those misses could hit walls, windows, or equipment instead of your screen or netting.

How to measure:

Measure the full width of the space, wall to wall. Then subtract:

Any shelving or storage you can't remove
Space needed for the enclosure frame (about 2-3 inches per side)
Buffer zones you want (recommended: 1 foot minimum per side)

For the screen itself, you typically want:

8-10 feet wide for a basic setup
10-12 feet wide for a comfortable setup
12-16 feet wide for a premium/commercial feel

Your screen width determines what aspect ratio makes sense (more on that in the screen article), and your room width determines your maximum screen width.

Depth: The Dimension Everyone Underestimates

Minimum: 15 feet
Comfortable: 18 feet
Ideal: 20+ feet

Depth is where most simulator dreams die. Here's why you need so much:

From front to back, you need space for:

Behind the screen: 18 inches minimum (the screen deforms when hit)
The screen itself: Negligible depth
Hitting position to screen: 10-12 feet (safety zone + projector considerations)
Your stance/hitting area: 3-4 feet
Behind you: 5-6 feet (backswing + someone watching safely) and, some launch monitors track from behind.

Add those up and you're at 18-24 feet for a comfortable setup.

Can you squeeze into 15 feet? Yes, but you'll likely need:

An ultra-short-throw projector
To stand closer to the screen than ideal
To accept that someone can't safely stand behind you while you swing

How to measure:

Measure the total depth of your space. Then mark out zones:

Where the screen will go (against a wall or with some gap)
Where you'll stand (10-12 feet from screen)
Where your follow-through ends (5-6 feet behind your stance)

If your follow-through zone ends at or past the back wall, you don't have enough depth.

Rating Your Space Options

The Garage: Most Common, Most Compromises

Pros:

Usually has adequate ceiling height (9-10 feet)
Larger footprint than most indoor rooms
Easier to make noise
Concrete floor handles equipment well

Cons:

Temperature extremes (brutal in winter, hot in summer)
Car storage conflicts
Garage door creates light control issues
May have sloped floor for drainage
Dust and dirt from vehicles

Making it work:

Consider a heater/AC unit or only use during moderate months
Insulated garage doors and blackout curtains help
Either commit to no cars or build a setup that works around them
A retractable screen can help with the car situation

Ideal garage dimensions: 20+ feet deep, 12+ feet wide, 10+ feet tall

The Basement: The Gold Standard (If the Ceiling Works)

Pros:

Climate controlled
Dedicated space (no conflict with cars)
Sound isolation from rest of house
Often has fewer windows (easier light control)

Cons:

Ceiling height is often the killer (8-foot ceilings are common)
Support posts may limit layout options
Ductwork, pipes, and beams reduce effective height
May need dehumidification in some climates
Finishing an unfinished basement adds cost

Making it work:

Measure the lowest ceiling point in your hitting area, not the main ceiling
If you have 8-foot ceilings, a simulator is probably not feasible unless you're shorter or okay with irons only
Support posts can sometimes be worked around with creative layout
Ductwork can occasionally be rerouted (expensive but possible)

Ideal basement dimensions: 18+ feet long, 12+ feet wide, 9+ feet clear ceiling

The Spare Room: Convenient But Rarely Works

Pros:

Climate controlled
Integrated into living space (easy access)
No car conflicts

Cons:

Almost never has adequate dimensions
Standard room ceilings are 8 feet (too low)
Swinging a driver inside the house terrifies most families
Noise carries through the house

Making it work:

Honestly, most spare rooms don't work for a full simulator. However, if you have an unusually large bonus room, dedicated home gym space, or converted commercial space, it might be viable.

The exception: net-only setups. If you don't need full simulator projection and just want to hit into a net with a portable launch monitor, a spare room can work. Just not for the full simulator experience.

Outdoor Covered Space: Unlimited Height, Weather Challenges

Pros:

No ceiling restrictions
Can be as large as you want to build
Fresh air, natural setting

Cons:

Weather limits usage (rain, wind, extreme temps)
Lighting is nearly impossible to control (projection is washed out)
Equipment exposure to elements
May require permits/HOA approval

Making it work:

Best in mild climates (Southern California, Arizona, Florida)
Consider a fully enclosed outdoor building (essentially building a room)
Net-only setups (no projection) work better outdoors
Covered patios rarely work for projection—too much ambient light

The Often-Overlooked Factors

Light Control

This is huge and often ignored until it's a problem.

Projectors need darkness to produce a good image. Every window in your simulator space is an enemy. Even a single uncovered window can wash out your projected image enough to ruin the experience.

Assess your space:

How many windows are there?
Can they be completely covered?
Is there ambient light from adjacent spaces?
Does a garage door have windows?

Budget for blackout curtains, window covers, or professional light-blocking solutions. A $3,000 projector looks like garbage if light is bleeding into the room.

Flooring Considerations

What's under your feet matters more than you'd think.

Concrete (most garages, some basements):

Pro: Sturdy, can handle heavy equipment
Con: Hard on joints during long sessions
Solution: Add foam underlayment and turf

Wood subfloor (most basements and rooms):

Pro: Warmer, more comfortable
Con: Might not handle heavy equipment well, can transmit vibrations
Solution: Usually fine, but check for flex/softness

Carpet:

Pro: Comfortable
Con: Doesn't work well with hitting mats, hard to clean
Solution: Roll up or remove carpet in simulator area

Whatever your base floor, plan to add golf turf or flooring. We'll cover this in detail in Article 8.

Electrical Access

Your simulator needs power for:

Launch monitor
Projector
Computer
Potentially: lighting, fans/HVAC, sound system

Questions to answer:

Where are the outlets in your space?
Can you run extension cords safely, or do you need new outlets?
Is the circuit capable of handling the load?
Do you need a dedicated circuit for the projector? (often recommended)

Ideally, you want outlets:

Near where the computer will go
Near the projector mount location
Near the hitting area (for launch monitor)

If outlets are nowhere near these spots, budget for an electrician.

Sound Considerations

A golf ball hitting an impact screen is loud. Not dangerously loud, but definitely noticeable throughout a house.

Consider:

Will hitting balls at 11pm disturb sleeping family members?
Will the noise bother neighbors (in a garage or outdoor space)?
Do you need sound isolation?

Some golfers add foam panels or other acoustic treatment to reduce noise. Others just accept that the simulator room will be loud.

Also consider that you'll want sound—either from simulator software or music/TV. Plan for a sound system that doesn't require cranking volume to compete with ball impact noise.

Step-by-Step: Measuring Your Space

Get a tape measure, a notepad, and someone to help. Here's exactly what to document:

1. Overall Dimensions

Total length (depth)
Total width
Ceiling height at multiple points
Height of lowest obstruction (duct, beam, fixture)

2. Obstructions and Features

Windows (location, size, can they be covered?)
Doors (where do they open, will they interfere?)
Support posts or pillars
HVAC vents and returns
Water heater, furnace, electrical panel locations
Anything protruding from walls

3. Electrical

Location of all outlets
Circuit breaker access
Existing dedicated circuits?

4. Draw It Out

Sketch a birds-eye floor plan with measurements. Mark:

Where you'd put the screen (typically against a wall)
Where you'd stand (10-12 feet from screen)
Where the projector might mount
Where a computer/equipment table would go
Where people would watch from

5. Photograph Everything

Take photos from multiple angles. These will be invaluable when:

Asking for advice on forums
Working with equipment vendors
Planning purchases
Remembering details later

Common Space Planning Mistakes

Mistake 1: Measuring Optimistically

"My ceiling is basically 9 feet." No, measure it exactly. At the lowest point.

"I have about 15 feet of depth." No, measure it exactly. Wall to wall.

Optimistic measurements lead to equipment that doesn't fit or a setup that feels cramped.

Mistake 2: Forgetting the Projector

You plan the screen, the hitting position, the space behind you... and then realize there's nowhere to put the projector that produces the right image size.

Projector placement is dictated by "throw ratio"—the relationship between distance and image size. A projector that needs 12 feet to fill your screen doesn't help if you only have 8 feet of mounting distance.

We'll cover projectors in detail in Article 6, but for now, note your available projector mounting positions and distances.

Mistake 3: Ignoring Traffic Flow

How do people move through your simulator space?

If the only entrance to your backyard is through the garage, and your simulator blocks that path, you have a problem. If your basement simulator blocks access to your water heater or electrical panel, that's a problem.

Think about who needs to get through, how often, and whether your setup accommodates that.

Mistake 4: Underestimating Setup Depth

New simulator owners consistently put themselves too close to the screen. This happens because:

They want to maximize room behind them
They don't realize how far 10 feet actually is
They don't account for the projector

Stand 10 feet back from a wall. That's further than most people think. Now add 5 feet behind you. That's 15 feet minimum before you even account for space behind the screen.

What If Your Space Doesn't Quite Work?

If your space falls short on one dimension, you might have options:

Ceiling too low (8 feet):

Consider a net-only setup (no projection, just launch monitor + net)
Practice shorter clubs only
Look for a different space

Not enough depth:

Ultra-short-throw projector can help
Stand closer to screen (less ideal, but workable)
Smaller screen reduces required projector distance
Net-only setup doesn't require projector depth

Not enough width:

Narrower screen (less immersive, but functional)
Careful positioning of hitting area
Accept that wild misses might hit walls

Light issues:

Blackout solutions can usually solve this
Higher-lumen projector fights ambient light better
Ambient-light-rejecting screens help (but cost more)

Sometimes the answer is that your space doesn't work for a full simulator—but a portable launch monitor and net in the backyard might be perfect. Or a net-only garage setup. There are in-between options.

What's Coming Next

Now that you understand your space, it's time to talk about the heart of any simulator: the launch monitor. In Article 3, we'll demystify the technology that makes it all work, compare radar vs. camera systems, and help you understand what you actually get at each budget level.

Your space dimensions will directly impact which launch monitors make sense for your setup—some need more depth behind the ball, some work better in tight spaces. Knowing your space first makes that decision much easier.

Next up: Understanding Launch Monitors: The Brain of Your Simulator

Questions about measuring your space or whether it'll work? Drop them in the comments.