Buying Used Clubs

Here's a secret the golf industry doesn't love to advertise: a 3-year-old premium club often performs nearly identically to this year's model.

Golf club technology has improved dramatically over the decades, but the year-over-year changes? Mostly marginal. That $500 driver from 2022 isn't meaningfully worse than the $600 driver from 2025.

This creates an opportunity. Used and pre-owned clubs offer tremendous value—often 40-60% off original prices—for equipment that performs just as well as new. You just need to know what to look for.

Why Used Clubs Make Sense

The Technology Reality

Club manufacturers release new models every year. They have to—it's how they stay in business. And they market each release as a significant advancement.

But here's the truth: driver technology, iron technology, and wedge technology have been mature for a while. A 2021 Callaway Mavrik driver isn't meaningfully worse than a 2024 Paradym. The differences exist, but they're measured in single yards and fractions of degrees of forgiveness.

For most amateur golfers, swing improvement matters far more than equipment upgrades. A better swing with a 5-year-old club beats a bad swing with this year's model every time.

The Value Proposition

New driver: $550-$600
Same driver, one year old (used/mint): $350-$400
Same driver, two years old (excellent condition): $250-$300

That's 40-50% savings for equipment that's functionally equivalent. Multiply that across a full bag and you're saving $500-$1,000+ easily.

The Try-Before-You-Commit Factor

Not sure if you'll stick with golf? Starting with used clubs lets you get quality equipment without a massive investment. If you decide golf isn't for you, you can resell without taking a big loss.

If you do stick with it, you can upgrade later—potentially getting fitted once your swing stabilizes—and recoup much of your used purchase by reselling.

What to Inspect When Buying Used

Clubface and Grooves

What to look for:

Wear pattern: Some wear in the center of the face is normal and expected. Heavy wear concentrated on the toe or heel suggests the previous owner had significant strike issues—the club may have been hit thousands of times off-center.

Groove condition: Run your fingernail across the grooves. On irons and wedges, you should feel distinct, sharp edges. If the grooves feel smooth or rounded, they're worn out and won't generate proper spin.

Sky marks (drivers): Look at the crown of drivers. Marks near the face indicate topped/skied shots that scraped the crown on the ball. Minor sky marks are cosmetic. Deep gouges suggest heavy abuse.

Face damage: Any cracks, dents, or significant scratches on the actual hitting surface are deal-breakers.

For wedges specifically: Grooves wear out faster than other clubs because wedges generate high spin. A wedge with 200 rounds of use may have significantly degraded grooves. Inspect carefully.

Shaft Condition

What to look for:

Straightness: Sight down the shaft like you're checking an arrow. Any visible bend or bow means the shaft is damaged—don't buy it.

Surface condition: Look for scratches, rust (on steel), or fraying (on graphite). Minor cosmetic scratches are fine. Deep gouges or any structural damage is a problem.

Tip condition: The tip (where shaft meets head) should be clean with no signs of damage or re-gluing. A club that's been re-shafted isn't necessarily bad, but you want to know about it.

Graphite-specific: Check for spider-web cracking or delamination. Graphite shafts can fail suddenly if damaged. Any visible damage is a no-go.

Grips

What to look for:

Wear pattern: Grips should feel tacky, not smooth and hard. Worn grips show shiny spots where hands have polished the rubber smooth.

Cracks or peeling: Old grips crack and peel. This doesn't affect playability immediately, but you'll need to replace them.

Alignment: Grips should be installed straight. A twisted grip is annoying and suggests amateur re-gripping.

The good news: Grips are cheap and easy to replace ($5-10 per grip, or $30-50 to have a shop do a full set). Don't let bad grips stop you from buying otherwise good clubs—just factor re-gripping cost into your decision.

Ferrule and Hosel

What to look for:

Ferrule: The small collar between the shaft and club head. It should be seated flush and not cracked, loose, or spinning. A loose ferrule can indicate the shaft isn't properly secured.

Hosel: The socket where the shaft enters the club head. Look for any cracks, dents, or signs of bending. Hosel damage is serious and usually unfixable.

Adjustable hosels (modern drivers/woods): Make sure the adjustment mechanism works. Turn it through the settings. If it's stuck, stripped, or damaged, the club loses significant value.

Overall Condition

Beyond individual components:

• Are all the clubs in a set actually matching? (Same model, same shafts, sequential lofts)

• Do headcovers come with woods? (Not essential but nice)

• Any signs of water damage or storage in poor conditions?

• Do adjustable clubs include the tool?

Condition Ratings Explained

Most used club retailers use a rating system. Here's what they typically mean:

Mint / Like New

Condition: Looks unplayed or nearly so. No visible wear on face, no scratches on sole or crown. Grips may be original and still tacky.

Expectation: You might not be able to tell it's used. Perhaps hit a handful of times.

Value: Usually 15-25% off new price

Excellent / Very Good

Condition: Light use. Minor cosmetic wear—small scratches on sole, slight wear pattern on face, maybe a small sky mark. Grips still functional but may show wear.

Expectation: Played for a season or so, well cared for. This is the sweet spot for value.

Value: Usually 30-45% off new price

Good

Condition: Moderate use. Visible wear pattern on face, scratches on sole/crown, grips likely worn. Cosmetically "used" but structurally sound.

Expectation: Played for several seasons, normal care. Perfectly functional.

Value: Usually 45-60% off new price

Fair / Average

Condition: Heavy use. Significant wear on face, possible groove wear on irons/wedges, scratches throughout. May need new grips. Cosmetically rough.

Expectation: Well-played clubs. Still functional but showing their age.

Value: Usually 60-75% off new price

Poor / Below Average

Condition: Very heavy use or visible damage. May have functional issues beyond cosmetics.

Expectation: Avoid unless you're specifically looking for beater clubs for practice or don't care about appearance.

Value: Minimal—often not worth buying

My recommendation: For most buyers, Excellent or Good condition offers the best value. You get significant savings while still having clubs that look presentable and perform well.

Where to Buy Used Clubs

Dedicated Golf Retailers (Online)

2nd Swing Golf (2ndswing.com)

• Huge selection

• Detailed condition ratings with photos

• Trade-in program

• Price matching

• Excellent reputation

GlobalGolf (globalgolf.com)

• Large inventory

• Frequent sales and coupons

• Good condition grading

• Trade-in available

Callaway Golf Pre-Owned (callawaygolfpreowned.com)

• Only Callaway/Odyssey/Top Flite

• Very accurate condition ratings

• 12-month warranty

• Some of the best deals on Callaway equipment

TaylorMade Preowned (taylormadegolfpreowned.com)

• Only TaylorMade

• Similar warranty to Callaway

• Good selection

eBay

• Largest selection overall

• Wide price range

• Buyer protection through eBay guarantee

• Requires more careful evaluation (individual sellers)

Pros of dedicated retailers: Curated inventory, accurate ratings, return policies, often warranties
Cons: Slightly higher prices than marketplace deals

Marketplaces

Facebook Marketplace

• Local pickup possible (inspect before buying)

• Negotiable prices

• Wide range of quality

• No buyer protection

OfferUp / Craigslist

• Similar to Facebook Marketplace

• Local deals

• Must vet sellers carefully

Golf-specific forums (GolfWRX, MyGolfSpy forums)

• Knowledgeable buyers and sellers

• Often good deals from golfers upgrading

• Community reputation systems

• May require more golf knowledge to evaluate

Pros of marketplaces: Often best prices, local inspection possible
Cons: More risk, no warranties, must evaluate carefully yourself

Big Box Retailers

Golf Galaxy / PGA Tour Superstore

• Trade-in and used sections

• Can inspect in person

• Store return policies

• Limited selection

Dick's Sporting Goods

• Some used inventory

• Less specialized staff

Pros: Physical inspection, familiar return policies
Cons: Smaller used selection, prices not always competitive

Pro Shops and Local Stores

Many courses and local golf shops sell used clubs:

• Trade-ins from members

• Demo clubs

• Estate sales and buyouts

Worth checking if you have a good local shop. Selection is unpredictable but deals can be excellent.

Last Year's Model New vs. Older Used Premium

This is a common dilemma: buy a brand-new club from last year at a discount, or buy a used premium club from 2-3 years ago?

New Last-Year Model

Pros:

• Still brand new, never hit

• Full manufacturer warranty

• Current technology (minus one year)

• Discounted 20-40% when new model releases

Cons:

• Still more expensive than used

• Depreciates immediately once you hit it

Best for: Golfers who want new-in-wrapper but don't need the absolute latest

Older Used Premium

Pros:

• Significant savings (40-60% off original)

• Premium equipment performs well for years

• Can get much more club for your budget

• Already depreciated—minimal further loss

Cons:

• Used (cosmetic wear)

• No manufacturer warranty (though some sellers offer their own)

• Technology is genuinely older (though usually not meaningfully worse)

Best for: Value-conscious golfers, those building a first quality set, anyone who prioritizes performance over prestige

My Take

For drivers: Buy used. Driver technology is mature. A 2021 driver performs nearly identically to a 2024 driver for amateur swing speeds. The savings are substantial.

For irons: Buy used or last-year-new. Irons last longer than drivers and the technology changes even less. A 3-year-old set of premium irons is an excellent value.

For wedges: Be more careful. Grooves wear out, and groove technology has improved. Consider newer used (1-2 years) or new. Wedges are relatively affordable anyway.

For putters: Buy whatever you want, used is usually fine. Putter technology barely changes and they don't wear out.

Different Considerations by Club Type

Drivers

What to watch:

• Face condition (no cracks or deep marks)

• Crown condition (sky marks are cosmetic, deep gouges are not)

• Adjustable hosel functionality

• Shaft condition (graphite cracks are invisible killers)

Lifespan: Drivers last years with normal use. Face wear is minimal unless heavily used.

Value window: 2-4 year old drivers offer best value

Fairway Woods and Hybrids

What to watch:

• Similar to drivers

• Check for turf interaction wear on sole

• Face wear matters more than drivers (fairways hit off grass, not tees)

Lifespan: Very long. Fairways and hybrids are often the last clubs to wear out.

Value window: 2-5 year old models

Irons

What to watch:

• Groove sharpness (critical for spin)

• Face wear pattern

• Matching set (all same model and shafts)

• Shaft consistency (same flex/type throughout)

Lifespan: 5-10+ years for grooves with normal amateur use

Value window: 2-5 year old models; game improvement irons from 5+ years ago still perform well

Wedges

What to watch:

• Groove sharpness (most critical for wedges)

• Face wear

• Bounce wear on sole

Lifespan: Grooves degrade faster on wedges due to spin generation. Heavy users might wear out wedges in 1-2 years; casual players 3-5 years.

Recommendation: Buy newer used or new. Wedge grooves matter too much to compromise significantly.

Putters

What to watch:

• Face condition (should be clean, no significant damage)

• Shaft straightness

• Head damage (dents, bends)

Lifespan: Essentially forever with normal use

Value window: Any age—putters from 10+ years ago work fine if undamaged

Red Flags: When to Walk Away

Definite deal-breakers:

• Any crack in the shaft (especially graphite)

• Bent shaft (sight down it like an arrow)

• Hosel damage or looseness

• Face cracking or denting

• Counterfeit clubs (research authenticity markers for premium brands)

• Significant rust on steel shafts

• Loose or spinning heads

• Mixed sets being sold as "matching" when they're not

Proceed with caution:

• Seller refuses additional photos

• No return policy

• Price too good to be true (possible counterfeit)

• Vague condition description

• Seller can't answer basic questions about the clubs

Trust your instincts. If something feels off, walk away. There are plenty of legitimate used clubs available.

How to Get the Best Deals

Timing

Best time to buy: Late fall through winter. Golf season is over in most of the country, demand drops, and prices follow.

Also good: Right after new models release. The previous year's model drops significantly, and trade-ins flood the used market.

Worst time: Early spring. Everyone is gearing up for golf season, demand peaks, and prices are highest.

Negotiation

On marketplaces: Always negotiate. Sellers expect it. Polite lowball offers often get accepted.

On retail sites: Use coupon codes, sign up for email lists, check for sales. Prices are usually fixed but discounts are frequent.

Trade-ins

If you have old clubs, trade-in values can offset new purchases. Compare trade-in offers across:

• 2nd Swing

• GlobalGolf

• Callaway Pre-Owned

• PGA Tour Superstore

• Golf Galaxy

Values vary significantly. Get multiple quotes.

Complete Sets vs. Individual Clubs

Buying complete used sets:

• Often great value for beginners

• Make sure all clubs are truly matching

• Watch for mixed-and-matched components

Building piece by piece:

• More control over exact specs

• Can prioritize where you spend

• Takes more time and research

The Bottom Line

Used clubs are one of golf's best values. Technology doesn't change enough year-to-year to justify always buying new, and the secondary market is robust and trustworthy.

The smart approach:

1. Know what specs you need (ideally from a fitting or at least some research)

2. Target clubs 2-4 years old in Excellent or Good condition

3. Inspect carefully (or buy from retailers with good ratings/photos)

4. Factor in grip replacement if needed

5. Don't overpay for the newest used—the savings should be substantial

With patience and knowledge, you can build a premium-quality bag for half the cost of buying new. That's money you can spend on lessons, rounds, or other gear—all of which will improve your game more than the marginal difference between last year's driver and this year's.

Next up: What Golf Ball Should You Play?