tplgolf - Indoor Golf Guide

The enclosure is what transforms a collection of equipment into a proper golf simulator. It's the frame that holds your screen, the walls that catch errant shots, the ceiling that contains high wedge shots, and the structure that blocks light for better projection.

You have two main paths: buy a complete kit or build it yourself. Both work. The right choice depends on your budget, skills, and how much you enjoy (or dread) DIY projects.

Why You Need an Enclosure

Safety

A golf ball traveling 150+ mph doesn't stop politely if it misses the screen. Without side walls and a ceiling:

A hooked shot flies into your garage door mechanism
A skulled wedge hits the ceiling (or person standing behind you)
A shank travels sideways into whatever's next to your hitting area

An enclosure keeps balls contained. That's not just protecting property—it's protecting people.

Light Control

Your projector fights ambient light. An enclosure creates a darker "box" around your screen:

Side walls block light from adjacent spaces
A ceiling (or baffle) blocks overhead light
The darker the enclosure, the better your projected image

Aesthetics

Let's be honest: a screen hanging from hooks with bungee cords visible looks janky. An enclosure gives your simulator a finished, intentional look. It's the difference between "I have golf stuff in my garage" and "I have a golf simulator."

Frame Attachment

Your screen needs to be mounted with proper tension. An enclosure frame provides consistent, reliable attachment points. Without it, you're improvising mounting solutions that may not hold up.

Complete Kit Options

Several companies sell enclosure kits that include frame fittings, screen, enclosure fabric, and mounting hardware. You provide the pipes and assemble.

Carl's Place DIY C-Series

What's included:

Impact screen (your choice of Standard, Preferred, Premium, or High Contrast Gray)
Black nylon enclosure fabric (sides, top)
Steel corner fittings
Ball bungees and zip ties
Assembly instructions
Pipe cut sheet

What you provide:

1-inch EMT pipe (from hardware store) OR add their Pipe Framing Kit
Tools (wrench, rubber mallet, tape measure, pipe cutter if sourcing pipes yourself)

Sizes available: Multiple standard sizes from 10'x10'x5' to larger custom options

Price range: $800-$1,500+ depending on size and screen choice

Pros:

Quality components, well-designed system
Good instructions and support
Screen options from budget to premium
Bottom cable system reduces bounceback
Looks professional when assembled

Cons:

Still requires assembly work
Pipes require cutting (unless you buy their kit)
Premium screens add significant cost

Best for: Most home simulator builders who want quality without full DIY complexity.

Carl's Place Pro Series

For larger, more premium installations:

Accommodates larger bays (up to 20' wide or deep)
2-inch EMT (heavier, sturdier)
Premium screen standard
More commercial-grade construction

Price range: $2,500-$5,000+

Best for: Commercial installations, luxury home builds, or anyone wanting maximum size and quality.

Other Kit Options

SwingBay: Popular alternative with good reviews, similar concept to Carl's.

SIM-in-a-Box: Another complete kit approach.

Shop Indoor Golf DIY kits: Various sizes and configurations.

When evaluating kits, compare:

Screen quality (the screen matters most for daily experience)
Frame fitting quality (cheap fittings = wobbly frame)
Enclosure fabric quality (will it contain balls? block light?)
Size options (does it match your space?)
Reviews from actual users

Full DIY: Building from Scratch

If you're handy and want to save money or achieve a custom configuration, full DIY is viable. The basic concept is simple: build a frame from pipe or wood, attach a screen, and add protection on the sides/top.

DIY with EMT Pipe

EMT (Electrical Metal Tubing) is the standard choice for DIY enclosure frames. It's affordable, available at any hardware store, lightweight but strong, and easy to work with.

What you need:

EMT pipe: 1-inch diameter for most home builds. (Note: "1-inch EMT" actually measures 1.163" outer diameter—this is the trade size.) For larger or commercial builds, 2-inch EMT provides more rigidity.

Connectors: Corner fittings that join pipes at 90-degree angles. Common sources:

Carl's Place (sells fittings separately)
Maker Pipe (modular connector system)
A1Tarps (various pipe fittings)
Amazon (search "EMT conduit fittings")

Pipe cutter or saw: EMT cuts easily with:

A handheld pipe cutter ($15-20)
A reciprocating saw (Sawzall) with metal blade
A miter saw with metal-cutting blade

Impact screen: Purchase separately from Carl's Place, SIGPRO, or others.

Enclosure fabric or netting: To cover the sides and top. Options include:

Blackout fabric (blocks light, professional look)
Golf netting (lighter, cheaper, doesn't block light as well)
Heavy curtains (budget option)

Mounting hardware: Ball bungees, zip ties, or other methods to attach screen and fabric to frame.

DIY Frame Assembly

Step 1: Plan your dimensions

Decide your frame size based on:

Screen dimensions (frame should be slightly larger than screen)
Room constraints
How deep you want the enclosure (3-5 feet is typical)

Step 2: Calculate pipe lengths

For a frame that's W feet wide, H feet tall, and D feet deep, you need:

Width pieces: 4 pipes of W feet (top front, top back, bottom front, bottom back)
Height pieces: 4 pipes of H feet (four vertical corners)
Depth pieces: 4 pipes of D feet (connect front to back)

Add connectors to your count: typically 8 corner fittings for a basic box.

Step 3: Cut pipes to length

Measure carefully. Cut slightly long rather than short (you can trim, you can't add). EMT cuts easily but produces sharp edges—deburr after cutting.

Step 4: Assemble the frame

Start with one side (a rectangle), then add the connecting pieces, then complete the box. Work with a partner—holding long pipes while tightening fittings is easier with help.

Step 5: Attach the screen

Use ball bungees through the screen's grommets, wrapped around the frame pipes. Start with the top, then sides, then bottom. Achieve moderate tension—not drum-tight.

Step 6: Add enclosure covering

Drape blackout fabric or netting over the top and sides. Secure with zip ties, velcro, or clips. Leave the back open (that's where you stand) or create a removable back panel.

Step 7: Add padding

Wrap foam pipe insulation around all exposed frame pipes. This prevents dangerous bounces if a ball hits the frame instead of the screen.

DIY with Wood

For permanent installations, some builders prefer wood framing:

Advantages:

Can be mounted directly to walls/ceiling
Easier to create truly custom shapes
No fittings needed at corners
Can support heavier loads

Disadvantages:

More permanent (harder to disassemble)
Heavier
Requires more woodworking skill
Can't reposition as easily

Typical approach:

Build a frame from 2x4s
Lag bolt to wall studs and/or ceiling joists
Mount screen with eye hooks and bungees
Cover with fabric/netting

Wood framing makes sense if you're committing to a permanent simulator space and want maximum rigidity.

Cost Comparison

Kit Approach

Carl's DIY kit (mid-size, Preferred screen): ~$1,200 Pipe framing add-on (optional): ~$200-300 Tools (if needed): ~$50

Total: $1,250-$1,550

Full DIY Approach

EMT pipe (~100 feet for typical build): ~$150-250 Fittings: ~$50-100 Impact screen (purchased separately): $300-600 Enclosure fabric/netting: ~$100-200 Foam pipe insulation: ~$50 Ball bungees, zip ties, misc: ~$50 Tools (pipe cutter, etc.): ~$50

Total: $700-$1,300

DIY saves $300-500 compared to kits, but requires more time, sourcing effort, and problem-solving.

Assembly Tips from Experience

Measure Twice, Cut Once

Seriously. EMT is cheap, but cutting 10 feet of pipe when you needed 11 means another trip to the hardware store. Measure carefully.

Square Your Frame

Use a carpenter's square or measure diagonals. A crooked frame means a crooked screen and a crooked image. Take time to square everything before final tightening.

Use Pipe Insulation Everywhere

Every piece of exposed frame should be wrapped in foam pipe insulation. It's cheap, easy to apply, and prevents both injury and ball damage. A ball hitting metal pipe bounces unpredictably. A ball hitting foam bounces safely.

Secure the Base

If your frame isn't attached to walls/floor, it can shift over time—especially in garages where you might brush against it. Consider:

Sandbags at the base
Small angle brackets screwed to floor
Attaching to walls where possible

Plan for Access

You need to retrieve balls, adjust equipment, and occasionally work behind the screen. Make sure your enclosure design allows access without major disassembly.

Label Your Pipes

If using multiple lengths, label each pipe (masking tape + marker) after cutting. During assembly, you'll thank yourself for knowing which pipe goes where.

Safety Essentials

Foam Padding

Already mentioned, but it bears repeating: every frame pipe needs padding. A ball striking bare metal at speed is dangerous.

Critical areas:

Bottom front pipe (most common impact zone for mishits)
Side frame pieces
Any exposed corner fittings

Use foam pipe insulation, pool noodles, or similar materials. Wrap with tape if needed to keep in place.

Net Wall Extensions

If your enclosure doesn't have solid side coverage from floor to ceiling, consider adding netting extensions. These catch balls that escape the main enclosure area—preventing them from hitting walls, cars, or people.

Ceiling Protection

High wedge shots or skulled drivers can travel upward. Make sure your enclosure top (or ceiling baffles) extends back far enough to catch these.

If using an "open top" design (no ceiling on enclosure), consider mounting foam panels on the actual ceiling above the hitting area.

Secure Mounting

A loose screen or wobbly frame creates unpredictable bounces. Make sure:

Screen tension is consistent across all attachment points
Frame fittings are tightened properly
The structure doesn't sway when touched

Special Considerations

Multi-Use Spaces

If your garage needs to function as a garage (novel concept), consider:

Retractable designs: The screen can roll up to the ceiling, frame folds or stays in place.

Modular construction: The enclosure can be partially disassembled (front frame section removes, for example).

Compact footprint: Design the enclosure to leave room for vehicles, storage, etc.

Kits like the HomeCourse retractable screen are designed for this use case. DIY builders can create pulley systems or hinged frame sections.

Very Tight Spaces

If your space is borderline (just barely meeting minimums):

Shallower enclosure depth: 2-3 feet instead of 5 feet. Reduces total depth needed.

Closer screen mounting: Mount the screen against the wall (with foam padding behind) to gain depth for hitting.

Minimal frame: Use the simplest frame that provides screen mounting, without full enclosure sides/top.

Very Large Spaces

Commercial or luxury home installations can go bigger:

2-inch EMT: Provides more rigidity for larger spans Multiple hitting bays: Side-by-side setups for multiple golfers Walk-in designs: Enclosures you can enter from the back

Carl's Pro Series and similar commercial-grade kits handle these scenarios.

Common Enclosure Mistakes

Mistake 1: Skipping the Padding

"The pipe is too high to hit with a golf ball."

Someone will prove this wrong. Maybe you, maybe a guest who skulls a wedge. Pad everything.

Mistake 2: Over-Tightening the Screen

A drum-tight screen bounces balls back at you. Moderate tension with some give is safer and actually improves screen life.

Mistake 3: Blocking Projector Ventilation

If your enclosure has a ceiling that the projector mounts below, make sure there's airflow. Projectors generate heat. Trapped heat kills projectors.

Mistake 4: Ignoring Weight

A full enclosure with screen, fabric, and padding weighs substantial pounds. Make sure your frame design handles the load, especially horizontal spans that can sag.

Mistake 5: No Access Plan

You seal up your beautiful enclosure and realize you can't reach the projector, can't adjust screen tension, and can't retrieve balls without major effort. Build in access.

My Recommendations

For most builders: Carl's Place DIY C-Series kit with Preferred or Premium screen

The kit approach saves time, ensures component compatibility, and provides decent instructions. The price premium over full DIY is modest relative to the convenience.

For budget-conscious DIYers: Full DIY with Carl's Premium screen purchased separately

Buy the screen from Carl's (it's their core product and high quality). Build the frame yourself from EMT and third-party fittings. Cover with affordable blackout fabric from Amazon.

For luxury/commercial builds: Carl's Pro Series or professional installation

When budget isn't the constraint, the Pro Series provides a premium result. For commercial installations, consider hiring a professional installer.

For multi-use garages: HomeCourse retractable or DIY retractable system

The HomeCourse Premium is expensive but solves the problem elegantly. DIY retractable systems require more engineering but can work.

What's Coming Next

Your enclosure creates the structure. Now let's talk about what goes inside—specifically, the flooring. In Article 8, we'll cover comfort, putting surfaces, and creating a realistic experience from the ground up.

Next up: Flooring: Comfort, Safety & Creating a Realistic Experience

Questions about enclosure building? Share your own DIY tips in the comments.